36558 (P1108803W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the top hinge (4 screws)-lifted the door off of the lower hinge-replaced both halves of the cam kit and mounted the door and reattached the upper hinge.
Probably took about fifteen minutes total.

Removed the kick plate then removed four screws and unplugged the old timer. Plugged in the new part and replaced cover and kick plate.

Remove the grandkids pictures from the door then empty the contents inside the door. Remove the top hinge cover and the top hinge bracket. Lift the door off the bottom pivot. Replace the lower cam by removing one screw. With the door in the horizontal position, remove and replace the upper cam. Apply a little grease on both cam surfaces. Align the door before tightening the top bracket and your done. If you did not take a picture of the door before you started the project you will have to rely on memory to arrange the pictures in the proper location.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

This is the easiest repair to perform, figuring out what was wrong took a little longer. I have the bottom freezer Amana refrigerator and the defrost timer is just behind the bottom front grill, removing four screws and plugging in the new timer took maybe 15 minutes. To find out what was not working correctly I removed the panel covering the coils in the freezer and it was totally frozen up, this is why it stopped making ice and wasn't keeping things cold. I defrosted the coils and checked the resistance of the heater to make sure it was working, it was fine so it was the defrost timer.

Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

I used the process of elimination. The freezer was cold but the fridge side was warm. The motor was runing but the fan was not working. I unplugged the power cord and pulled everything out of the freezer. Then I took the coil cover out. The unit was frozen solid. I used my wifes hair dryer to melt the ice on the coil and spray water with a bottle to speed up the process. It took about 15 minutes to melt the ice and plug the power cord again. The motor kicked on and the fan started blowing right away so I know it's not the fan. The following morning it was frozen again. I repeated the process of taking everything out and tested the heater element with a multimeter. It wasn't working allowing the ice to build over the coil so I replaced it. It took about 30 minutes to replace but two days later it froze again. I read a little to learn about the timer and the thermostat function in a refrigerator. The timer rotates to turn off the motor and turn on the heater element to melt the ice on the coil. I tried to rotate it but it felt too hard to turn and it smelled burnt out so I replaced it at once. It took me less than 10 minutes to replace. I also learn that the thermostat reaches certain temperature and activates the fan which blows the cold air out of the coil and throughout the fridge compartments. Because the coil and the thermostat were getting covered in ice, it was not activating the fan to blow the air out keeping the freezer side cold and the fridge side warm. By replacing them both, the thermostat and the timer I solved the problem. It took about 30 minutes to replace the thermostat but now it's working like a brand new one again.

Took the door off, and replaced the plastic shim on the bottom that was the cause of the problem. The shim had broken into pieces and was no longer holding the door in height and alignment. I was proud of myself that I could repair it myself and avoid a $125.00 service call from a repairman. Total cost of repair including shipping and handling was just south of $12.00.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

Removed and Replaced

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

Went a little slow but rather easily.

I followed the other web notes with one change .Since I too forgot the lube , I used a pry bar and block of wood to lift the door and a tooth pick to glob some lube in the lower hinge.