25358087893 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed shelf brackets to allow the removal of the evaporator sheetmetal cover. Unpluged wires to thermostat ,removed defrost timer and plugged in new timer,(front left lower kick panel). Cut and resoldered wires to new thermostat reinstalled thermostat and cover in reverse order. I knew what parts I needed and how to repair the unit,however your customer comments were spot on and would help anyone perform a successful repair (you provide a helpful service for the public)

Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ

Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws.
Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )

just put new bin in slots

Removed the back cardboard cover and then 1 retaining screw from the back of valve. Unhooked all 3 tubes from valve (careful to remember which on went were), removed the 2 electrical connectors attached to the solenoids. replaced all the connectors and water lines onto new valve and tested for leaks then I moved back under the fridge where it was mounted and tightened retaining screw, checked for leaks then Pushed the fridge back in. Works Great!

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

I checked all areas such as water flow in the door and to see if any of the lines from the water valve was clogged. After finding that the lines were clear and the water flow was good through the door. I also checked the Ice maker to make sure it was going through its cycles. I also noticed the valve was making a loud noise when it would try to put water in the Ice maker. I did check the line to the Ice maker inside the refrigerator to see if the water had frozen in the tube. I removed the two screws that hold in the valve and reconnected the water line and the line heading to the lce maker and now my Ice maker is fully functional and making ice like always. The repair was easy and anyone could do it. Also remember to unplug appliances when you work on them, just a safety reminder.

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Removed ice bucket from freezer. Remove ice. Remove 2 phillips head screws from the inside front of ice bucket, and 2 fromt the bottom front to remove the front cover. Remove the E clip and washer from ice crusher shaft. Remove 4, 1/4” head screws from ice crusher housing. Unclip the selector shaft from crusher door paying attention to position.Slide housing off of shaft and discard. Install new housing over shaft and install the 4 screws. Install selector shaft into door. Install the E clip and washer onto shaft. Install front housing with the 4 screws previously removed. Refill bucket with ice and install bucket back into freezing taking care to orient the ice screw shaft into the cog in the back of the freezer as well as the door selection shaft. Test operation.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Heard the snap of a short circuit followed by a burning smell around the refrigerator. Pulled it out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a nut driver. Plugged it back in and when the compressor kicked on I saw sparks and some smoke at the relay. Unplugged and ordered new relay and the associated run capacitor in case it was also bad.
Removed the holding clip and the relay with capacitor easily came out with two wires attached. Removing the wires was done by prying with needle nose pliers with some difficulty.
Inserting the wires into the new relay was also difficult. If the position isn't just right it does not snap in. Once it is positioned correctly it makes a positive connection with not much effort.
Reassembled the capacitor, plugged unit into compressor, added retaining clip and plugged in refrigerator.
Compressor started up correctly. Note that as the refrigerator cools the compressor will shut off for long periods of time. This is normal.