25344503605 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Replaced the top crisper drawer frame. Installation was very easy. The hardest part was cleaning all of the spilled food/liquid items from under the drawers once removed to replace the top frame. I will keep the top frame and repair it. From what I have read, this is a very common problem as there is no support in the middle of the frame...it is only plastic.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

I had to remove the face cover to gain access to the ribbon harness, also had to remove the push pads The ribbon is a delicate item so care had to be taken not to bend the ends. The ribbon can fit either side so getting it in place to make contact was kind of tricky. After the ribbon was in, it just a matter of putting things back together. Dispenser is fixed at a minimum cost, ribbon was shipped within 2 days which was great. Thanks to Part Select for easy to find on the net, had a complete diagram of the refrigerator ice/water dispenser so finding the parts needed was simple. Doug

Pull refrigerator from wall and disconnect the water line and unplug the power.

On top of the icemaker, two machine screws hold the icemaker to the side of the refrigerator. You will have to feel around to find the machine screws, but once you do, it is simple to slip the appropriate size socket over the hex heads. I found it helpful to have an extension on the socket wrench. Disconnect the power cable inside the refrigerator (there are little pressure clips on the side that help release the cable) and move it out of the way for the time-being.

Back out both machine screws several turns, but do not remove them completely. The icemaker slips over the screws, so leaving them in the side of the refrigerator makes that process a lot easier. Hand tighten the machine screws once you have positioned the new icemaker in place. One thing to be sure and do is make sure the water line hose coming out of the back of the refrigerator inside is on top of the icemaker. It fits into a slot in the top of the icemaker - failing to do this will result in water pouring into the freezer compartment, not into the icemaker..

Reconnect the power cable to the new icemaker and tuck it up behind the icemaker assembly. Tighten the machine screws completely, but do not over-tighten.

Reconnect the water line on the back of the refrigerator at the wall, and plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the unit fill immediately.

In about an hour you should have ice filling the bin. Enjoy!

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

First I removed the cover for the filter.(long nut driver) then the two screws holding the filter housing, held the retaining plungers in, and removed the filter housing. Then reversed the process and put it all back together. Simple.

I unscrewed the cover, took out old filter, put in new filter and replaced cover. End of story. Oh...don't forget to turn off the incoming water supply.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.