25344354409 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

PURCHASE:
Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the
terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the
wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached
is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner
liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple
crimp splice and shrink tube.

TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available,
it is highly recommended that the new part be tested:
You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one
very easily per instructions found on line.
TEST RESULTS-
a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open".
b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an
hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".

I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally
one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.

HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT):
A) Prep
Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm.
Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily.
Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make
re-installing the many components easier.
Gather tools from the attached list.

B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)

C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may
get in the eyes.)

D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers)
1) ) Upper Drawer:
a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are
on each side, toward the rear of the drawer.
b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and
lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4".
c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a
5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver.
d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer.
Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs.
e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly
to clear the track.
f) Put the drawer out of the way.

2) Lower Drawer With Front Door
*Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when
reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap.
a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door
can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor.
b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way
to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs.
c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling
is required. Repeat on the other side.
d) Drag the towel and door out of the way

D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer.
1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger.
It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket.
2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip
to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out.
3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be
removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the
left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.

E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off)
1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold.
2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside.
3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way.
4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.

F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall)
1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free.
2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover &
thread the thermistor free.
3) Set the cover aside.

G) Remove The back Wall
1) Remove all visible hex head screws.
2) The back wall can now be removed.
3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges
are a little sharp

H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation
or plastic components will be damaged.

I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner.
The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.

J) Install The New Thermostat
Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the
correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)

Remove ice drawer ,Removed front of drawer 4 screws ,Removed broken crusher 3 screws Ordered new parts reassembled replaced fix blade spacer that was broken and blade cover housing reattached front of drawer !

The repair was not it. It was the customer service by the ladys that answered the phone. Both of them were the same as to give me a perpaid return shipping label and my money back. It was like being at the return desk at W.M. and not like at some of the on line service I have come to know...

Gene

I took out the broken drawer and replaced it with the new drawer

As it turns out when i pulled the drawer out and then the door holder i discovered that there was a big piece of material that was suppose to be around the water line that was causing the problem. The old drawer holder was not the problem so the new piece was not needed. All is well.

Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Repair man wanted a 130.00 service charge plus parts , With the help of YouTube we did the repairs inhouse , couldn't believe it was that easy. Refrigerator is working like a new one ,our maintenance crew has ice cubes were all happy !

Unplugged appliance,took door off, replaced bottom swing gear,put door back on

Unplugged freezer, used digital multimeter to test defrost thermostat, temperature sensor, start/run capacitor and start/run relay for compressor motor. Found ohms values for start/run capacitor to be out of range and carbon traces on relay base where capacitor connects. Replaced capacitor and relay. Plugged freezer in and compressor immediately started running. On mid-range temp setting, empty freezer, temperature alarm light went off in 3 hours. Freezer has been functioning properly since repair was made. My husband is a licensed elevator mechanic with a background in electrical troubleshooting. He tested the components and completed the repairs.

just followed the instructions

Remove the food items from the shelves on the door, Phillips screwdriver to take the top cap off. Adjustable wrench to take the two screws off the top hinge. Lift out the door and set aside. Remove two bolts from the lower hinge, reinstall with the new hinge and spacer. Reinstall door on lower hinge. Lift into place to reattach the upper hinge. Put the food back in and you're done.

Did not repair, sensor was not located where you said, wrong sensor was sent to me, can't return oe exchange it COSTERMER SERVICE WILL NOT ANSWER MY EMAILS.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Removed ice bucket from freezer. Remove ice. Remove 2 phillips head screws from the inside front of ice bucket, and 2 fromt the bottom front to remove the front cover. Remove the E clip and washer from ice crusher shaft. Remove 4, 1/4” head screws from ice crusher housing. Unclip the selector shaft from crusher door paying attention to position.Slide housing off of shaft and discard. Install new housing over shaft and install the 4 screws. Install selector shaft into door. Install the E clip and washer onto shaft. Install front housing with the 4 screws previously removed. Refill bucket with ice and install bucket back into freezing taking care to orient the ice screw shaft into the cog in the back of the freezer as well as the door selection shaft. Test operation.