11084090610 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.

This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.

unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws
titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done

The repair went smoothly once I found detailed instructions including pictures on the web. The inlet valve is mounted on the back panel of the machine. To get access to the valve you need to remove the front/side cabinet. This was done by removing the two plastic moldings on the ends of the control panel, swing the control panel back, removing two screws, then tilting the front/side cabinet forward. The inlet valve was held in place by one screw and attached to the washer with a hose clamp. Reverse the process and the job was done.

It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).

First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.

Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.

Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!

p.s. PartSelect Rocks!

unlike the other's that said to take the top control panel off, i turned the machine up side down and was able to reach the valve from the bottom. it does require a good reach in but an average length arm will make it. just take the rubber hose loose from the valve with a pair of pliers, or hose clamp pliers if you are so blessed to have them, then pull the hose loose from the valve, then take the two electrical conectors off noting wich one goes with each side, then a nut driver should remove the valve without difficulty. installing new valve should be the reverse. i was up in running in minutes. it took longer to undo the hoses and reattach the hoses than to replace the valve.

I followed the instructions I found on your website. It made it very easy. Easier than if I had tried to do it the way I thought I had to remove the back of the washer. Going through the top panel made removing the bottom panel screws unnecessary.
The experts were correct, the instructions precise. Thank you

Your video was helpful. I just followed the directions, replaced the valve, put it back together and celebrated spending $28 instead of the $100 deductible on my home warranty. If you're sure of the part you need, just do it.

Just took screws on top panel holding the gauges pop the spring like braces holding the body of machine to back panel removed water valve one screw unhooked wireing than replaced new valve in reverse order.

The repair went great. The video shown on the partselect site saved me a huge amount of time disassembling the cabinet to access the malfunctioning part. The most difficult part of the repair was replacing the cabinet on the unit after the part swap and getting it straight. Luckily 2 attempts was enough. I recommend trying this repair yourself and saving a bunch of $$.

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

The hot water hose was frozen to the hot water bibb and it took me a while to cut it loose with my Dremel tool. Removed the cabinet and replaced the water inlet valve easily, then hooked up new hot and cold water hoses. Reinstalling the cabinet was a little tricky getting it lined up correctly. Checked for leaks then tested the washing machine and it ran great with the water filling the machine much faster with the new Water Inlet Valve. I will definitely replace the washing machine hot and cold water hoses every 5 years from now on.

Removed top control panel, removed inlet mount hardware, removed both electrical connectors, removed filler hose, Installed new inlet valve in reverse order. Works fine !

I followed the video instructions to the tee. Took more time to move the machine out and put back than to replace the inlet valve.