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11076673610 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11076673610
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The door cables broke and latch was warn to the point of being too loose
This model top can be popped off after removing the two screws under the lint filter. Once exposed remove the old cables and feed them through the hole on the front panel. Feed the springs through the ends of the cables and hook the other end into the dryer side panel slots towards the top on each side. Once both cables are fed, feed the opposite ends of the cables into the slots in the dryer door (after popping the white plastic covers out of them first). Put the white covers back into the slots to hold cables into doors. The door catch kit install is pretty obvious.
Parts Used:
Single Door Spring Door Cable Door Catch Kit
  • Wiley from LIVONIA, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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dryer would not turn on
Found the switch part on the floor and after I figured out where it came from it was minutes before it took to find the web site and order the part, I then watched the installation video which helped with a few pointers and days later it was installed and fixed for 10 dollars with shipping,AMAZING!!!
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch Actuator Spring/Lever Front Top Lock
  • Larry from Bethpage, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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incessantly annoyingly squeaky dryer
Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Douglas from Tiburon, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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old seal was disintegrating
As the instructions say: first remove the drum. In the case of my dryer the drum is supported by two rollers on the back panel and the opening in the front panel. Remove the front panel and the drum almost falls out.

Replacing the seal was easy . Just tear out the old seal, lightly sand the rear lip, stretch the new seal over it, being sure the stitching is oriented properly, and then squeeze adhesive from the supplied tube between the seal and the drum lip.

In putting the dryer back together I couldn't figure out how to thread the belt. I suggest that people attempting this repair take digital pictures of the inside of the appliance before disassembling it.

A very good experience and I prolonged the life of the dryer a good ten more years.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • Mike from Vancouver, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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small dark lines appearing on clothes
Like others have descibed, place Dryer on back and remove two hex head screws on back two phillips screws under lint cover, front is "clamped" with two plastic clips that I popped with a standard screwdriver. The door has two screws on the door switch, I removed these although I'm not sure I needed to. Lift the front out of the way. Look at the belt before you remove it, the tensioner pully isn't screwed in place and drops once the belt is removed. It isn't hard to figure out how it goes back together, but you might as well save the swearing. Remove the belt and the drum lifts out. Remove the old seal and glue the new one in place. Another repair suggested clothes pins to hold the seal while it dried, but I opted for some spring clamps with a little more grip. While the seal dries vaccuum the inside of the dryer and vent pipe clean everthing up good by the time you're done the glue is dry. Put the drum back in using a putty knife to slip the seal in place. re assemble in reverse order of disassembly. If I were doing this repair again I would have bought the front seal too. It doesn't appear to get as much wear as the back, but while you have it open why not? Repair easier than expected, but took more time with the cleaning and glue dry time.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • James from Ankeny, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Lint Filter wore out had to be replace
Changed out the lint filter
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Don from Dayton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Frig stopped cooling - Freezer side iced up
After un-plugging the frig and allowing it to defrost, we emptied the frig and gave it a thorough cleaning inside and outside. I then removed the shelving in the freezer and the face plate at the back of the machine. One of the defrost heater coils had burned out and there was a loss of continuity which was keeping the frig from defrosting properly. The old heater snapped out easily. I went to this website and ordered a new defrost heater assembly which arrived practically overnight. It was identical to the old one and installed as quickly and easily as the original had come out. I put the faceplate back on, put the shelving back in, placed a thermometer inside the fresh food section, plugged it in and waited until I heard ice cubes drop. The fresh food section was holding at 41 degrees F which is optimum. The refrigerator has been working smoothly every since! Easy job!
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Walter R from Gainesville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Clothes took multiple cycles to fully dry.
Removed rear panel, removed 3 screws and old element and installed new element. To install new element I only needed one screw and spliced in the two wires that were provided with the element. This repair was simple and now the dryer works great.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Donald from Pine City, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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broken handle
1) removed the old broken filter
2) deposited it in nearby wastebasket (with lint attached)
3) used scissors (see above) to remove plastic cover from new lint filter
4) inserted new lint filter
5) marveled at my handiwork!
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • John from New Bedford, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Heating unit burned out.
Followed the instructions, removed the back cover, disconnected the top, disconnected the element and removed the element holder, then the element. Reversed procedure to install the new part.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Charles from Osceola, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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a loud, high-pitched ringing noise
Raised the top of the dryer then took the front of the dryer off. Took the drum off. Replaced the pulley and support rollers. Then, put the new belt on and put it back together.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Craig from Booneville, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer stopped spinning.
Followed the PartSelect instruction video.
Basically opened the dryer.
Took the drum out.
Took the broken motor out.
cleanned the dryer since I had everything opened.
Replaced motor, pulley, old belt.
My 20 years old dryer is running like brand new.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly Clamp-Motor Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Drive Motor with Pulley
  • sherif from BARTONSVILLE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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There dryer was not producing any heat
I unplugged the dryer from the electrical outlet, removed the back of the unit and checked the heating element for continuity. There was no reading. I then removed the housing and heating element and visually inspected it. The coiled wire was broken in two places.
I then did a Google search with the model number and found Parts Select. I placed my order Sunday afternoon and the part arrived the following Wednesday. That evening it took about 20 minutes to install the new element,put the back on the dryer and re-attach the exhaust tube.
The old dryer is as good as new again.
TJ in Boise
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Terry from Boise, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Let the kids do it.
I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Robert from Rocky Mount, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Gasket was falling off, needed replacement
Removed door gasket that was on the door. Replaced with newer gasket (was a tad bit too big, so it slipped off as well.) Added some electrical tape to hold it on. Works like a charm.
Parts Used:
SEAL-DOOR
  • Anthony from N. Ferrisburg, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 11076673610
106 - 120 of 931