11076132410 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Turned off breaker to dryer. Removed 2 lint trap screws, raised top of dryer & unscrewed switch. Replaced door switch, closed top, replaced the 2 screws that hold lint trap, lowered top, then turned breaker back on.

then the video will not show you how to get the top off. It's very easy once you know where the clips and or screws are located. On my model, I used a putty knife on the bottom of the control panel edges. The panel will then rotate up. Then remove the 3 screws that hold on the top panel. Then slide the top panel out and up. Then you can follow the video to separate the electrical connector and 2 screws to remove the switch. Watch a video that show different techniques for different models.

Called my youngest son and had him do. He said he watched a U-tube on his pc for installing instructions

First I diconnected the power to the dryer and removed the plug from the wall outlet. I then removed the two screws holding the lint vent on the top of the dryer. I used a putty knife to lift up the top. Then I opened the door and removed the two screws which held the door switch in place on the front of the dryer. After disconnecting the 3wire switch with two pliers (one for holding the switch and the other for holding the connector) I connected the new door switch. Finally, I put the screw back on the front, lowered the dryer top and reinserted the two screws for the lint vent. I plugged the dryer in, turned on the power and tested it for function.

Checked fuse with Volmeter, had continuity (acted as a short) not the problem. Disconnected Hot Surface Igniter 2 Position connector to check resistance for a range of 50-300 Ohms of resistance with Voltohm Meter. Meter read open (High Resistance). Removed Igniter by unscrewing 5/16" hex nut on igniter plate assembly and noticed silicon carbide element was cracked in the middle. Ordered a new igniter and noticed assembly was required. Be careful here as igniter element is fragile, also do not touch it with your bare hands. You have to lay down on floor to reinstall igniter assembly and you might want to practice anchoring the defective igniter to gain confidence. Finally with slow movements anchored new igniter assembly and turned on dryer. Watched igniter glow heating gas valve and heating gas flame returned. Dryer fixed for a few hours of study online and cost only $24, plus learned how the gas dryer works.

I followed Steve's instructions from the video. 1. Unplug dryer. 2. Remove lint catcher. 3. Unscrew the two screws there and put screws to one side. 4. Release catches holding top of dryer and put top of dryer back against the wall. 5. Open dryer door and remove two screws holding the door switch that needed replacing, putting screws into the dryer. Remove switch. 6. Put in new dryer switch and put two screws back in to hold it. 7. Replace top of dryer, making sure catches are secure. 8. Put two screws back into lint filter area. 9. Replace lint filter. 10. Put plug back into the wall. Voila! The dryer light works and the dryer stops when I open the door during the cycle.

followed the repair video .. unplug dryer ... removed screws on lint trap .. popped the top off the dryer .. removed the two screws on the switch ..unplugged the switch using a small screw driver .. replaced switch .. put it all back together .. it took about 20 minutes

Removed two screws from under dryer lint screen enabling top to be raised. With top being held up, removed two screws holding door switch then pulled wiring harness apart thus removing old part. Reinstalled new switch in reverse order. Very simple.

Unplug from electricity, turn off gas valve, raise top, remove front. Take drum out of cabinet, unhook gas line from burner assy. unhook electric wires, marking them for re installation. Remove, and replace burner tube. Reinstall burner assy attach wires and gas line. (Check for leaks) Reassemble drum to cabinet, rethread belt thru tensioner, reinstall front, let top back down on unit.

I originally thought that the problem was the door switch assembly, but then noticed the light was still turning on and off and also the dryer did still run if I held the start button in. So then I thought maybe it was the Push to Start Switch, which I replaced very easily. The hardest part about the dryer is getting the aluminum cover off the top. Unless there's an easier way, you take off all the knobs and there's one screw under the timing knob. The cover is connected to the plastic fittings on each end, which I used a screw driver to pry off. It bent it a little, but it's unnoticeable.
The rest was really easy. Unscrew two small 1/4 inch bolts, pull a couple cables with pliers and it's done. Although for me, it wasn't done. Turns out it wasn't the switch. It was actually the Motor Relay that was busted. This part was also very easy to replace. Again, two screws and couple cables, and you're done.
Then put it all back together and the dryer works again.

Popped off dryer end caps, unscrewed 6 different screws, and the top flipped up. Taking the broken part out was easy and so was installing the new one. Would have gone faster if i hadn't put the switch thru the opening backwards! I went back to the video instructions before putting lid back down, and caught my mistake. Overall, took 30 minutes when it should have taken only 15 or 20. I did it alone and didn't need any help. Woohoo!

Dryer refused to start. Looked at "troubleshooting" section of manual. Several options, but door switch made the most sense since opening the door had not been stopping dryer for some time.
Googled for the part. Found part select. Photo looked like my door switch. Uplugged power. Removed the dryer filter screws. Pried up the top panel. Propped it open and removed the door switch (two screws and a plug. Two days later new part arrived. Installed it (two screws and plug. Pressed dryer top back down into place. Replaced two screws in filter unit. Plugged in power.
Started up right away. Spent more time figuring out how to lift dryer top than in removing and replacing switch.

I simply took 2 screws out that secure the lint screen to the dryer top. I lifted the lid to find the switch right in front. Two screws hold it in place. I removed the screws and unplugged the old switch. Then in reverse order I installed the new switch. Works fine.

The hardest part was deciding how the get the top cover lifted. My 7 year old son, who is in the cub scouts, wanted to give the repair work a try. I helped him unsnap the two lid clips and the switch connector. My son unscrewed the old switch and installed the new switch. We then had to vacuum up the enormous amount of lint, paper, and misplaced socks that were behind the washer and dryer so that Mom would be happy.

Pulled back panel off, then removed entire front body. Accessed the blower and the lint cover and removed. Removed drum and belt. Removed motor and replaced, reassembled and plugged in and it worked. Thank you