10658022802 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

removed the drive shaft (6 sided) with seals and replaced it. They last for about 5 years and have to be rotated (flipped over) to continue to use. The shaft metal is a little softer than the drive socket on the motor which, over time will cause the six-sided (12 inch) shaft to round the edges due to torque and pressure on the mixing shaft inside the ice bucket the the door of the freezer.

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

I wasn't sure just where the actual valve was located so I watched the video available where the valve part was listed. I watched the video and did exactly as described and found the repair to be quite easy. I replaced the valve and my problem was solved. Thanks to PartSelect for adding this video with this part listing.

replaced

took old bin out replaced with new , two minute job
Parts select is an easy co. to do business with THANKS Andrea

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Have not installed yet as I'm on a quick TX-FL-TX turnaround. Bought and received the part in 24 hours...great. Order contained no instructions. I could probably figure it out myself just have not attempted yet.

1) Removed the two screw holding the valve
2) cut exisiting hoses off old valve
3) put hoses on the new valve
4) reattach valve to refridgerator

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I got model number off my unit and order the part. That was after trying a lot of different filters first. I did a rush order so I got it in 2 days. Pulled the unit out to shut the water off. Then took the back off so I could take the 2 screws that hold the water value . That way I wouldn't have to go back and forth. Now I went to the front. I already had had the vent cover at the bottom of the unit off. I had a head lap on so to make it easier to see under the unit. Then I use the nut driver or you can use 1/4 inch drive ratchet with sockets. To take the 2 screws out that hold the filter housing. Then lift the spring wire that is on the left side of the release botton. Then push the wire up out of the way. Reach back and pull the water value forward so you have slack in the water lines. Now you can pull the fliter housing out to you. Now release the 2 water lines by pushing down on the rings around the water lines and hold while you pull the water lines out. Now the old water filter housing is free you can set it to the side. I inspected the new filter housing for any deformities and cracks before I started installing. Now I hooked the water lines up by pushing them into the right size spring ring hole. Once lines was all the way in I pulled back on the water lines to make sure they were locked in place. Then I put a new water filter in and turned the water on to make sure of no leaks. Then I put everything back together in the reverse order I took it apart. Then I check the spicket to make sure everything was working right. After that I was able to push the refrigerator back in and then wipe everything up and I was done.

Emptied draw of contents pulled draw out and inserted new drawer....easy pea-zee

Took the broken cap off. Actually it practically fell off. Put the new cap in place, turned it to the right and Presto! it locked in and works fine. It took longer to get it out of the box than it did to install it :)