10657702702 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

I first replaced the water valve, but that did not correct the problem. I then replaced the filter, but still no luck. In the end, it turned out to the the water filter housing was malfunctioning and not letting water through the filter when the filter was installed (it did let water through when the filter was removed, however). I replaced the water filter housing and all worked well once again. The filter housing is not difficult to replace. The hardest part is figuring out how to remove the hoses from the filter. Just push the hose in while holding the plastic ring around the outside, then pull the hose back out.

On this model, access is very easy. The tray slides forward, and then lifting up with a little force at the back of it clears a stop, allowing it to slide out. This exposes two Philips/sq2 screws that hold the faceplate in place. The faceplate swings out and is lifted off the top edge. Disconnect the wire harness and set aside. Trace the cable from the door motor to the control board. Disconnect the cable and fish up behind the facing material. Remove screws holding the dispenser door mechanism. On that assembly, remove the screws holding the motor to the mechanism. Replace the motor. Put the mechanism back in place engaging the metal actuator arm in the door. Fish the cable down to the control board and plug in. Plug the faceplate wiring harness back in, and reinstall the faceplate. Secure with two screws and replace the tray. Done.

Steps to replace Whirlpool evaporator fan motor
1. Watch numerous DIY Youtube videos
2. Move frozen food to refrigerator section, close refrigerator door
3. Cut power to refrigerator
4. Remove all shelves and bins in freezer section
5. Back panel has two parts, a top and a bottom section
6. Unclip small shroud covering screw bolt in upper left corner holding top panel. Remove screw bolt
7. Gently pull and work top panel out
8. Remove screw bolts from all four corners in lower panel and remove bottom panel
9. Verify power has been turned off
10. Unclip grounding wire
11. Unclip evaporator fan motor from power
12. Remove whole cradle holding evaporator fan motor. Note orientation of cradle. Fan blade is slightly angled toward the back of freezer. In other models, the cradle may not be removeable.
13. Remove plastic fan with firm pull
14. Unclip bottom brace to remove evaporator fan motor
15. Replace old grommets in bottom brace and on top of evaporator fan motor with the new grommets
16. Install new evaporator in cradle and clip-in the bottom brace
17. Install new fan blade on motor
18. Place cradle with new evaporator fan motor back in freezer
19. Reclip power and ground wire
20. Turn on power and test if working correctly
21. Turn off power
22. Complete steps from 8 to 2 in reverse

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

I replaced this same ice maker a month before, if that long, using a part I found $40 cheaper from another site. Needless to say you get what you pay for, the existing part was not exactly the same as the original and leaked water all over the place. I removed the not so old icemaker by removing the flapper door and removing the harness cover then pulling out the existing icemaker followed by disconnecting the wiring harness. Now with the old icemaker removed I removed the bottom tray/shield from the existing ice maker by removing the three screws from it then attached the tray to the bottom of the new ice maker from PartSelect which did not come with the bottom tray/shield. Finally, I executed the removal process in reverse order to install the new ice maker.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

I removed two small bolts that secure the flapper that keeps ice from falling out when you open the door, one bolt that holds a cosmetic cover for the wires and slid the icemanker forward. The only difficult part was removing the plug since it was high up, the wires were stiff and there's a release to push that locks the two plugs together. Once it was removed all was installed in the opposire order.
The part I ordered had a slightly taller channel where the water refills so I had to trim it to allow the new icemaker to slide in without bending the fill nozzle. Other than that it was pretty easy.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

Followed the directions from the video and almost everything went great. The toughest part of the repair was removing the push button cap from the old housing.

removed 8 screws 3 hose connections and done....hardest thing was getting up from the floor!!!

removed door took out single bolt pried out cam put new one in returned bolt rehung door. 15 minutes

pulled old gasket out cleaned area where gasket was and lube edge of new gasket with vaseline starting at top slide gasket in then sides last was bottom which was hardest. 20 minutes