10652212103 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

Very easy. Your online video was agreat help.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.

Removed the screws that held the control breaket. Then I removed (2) micro switches, and for a cable tie, I slide the old control bracket out and installed the new one purchased from your store. 5 minutes worth of work. THAT IT!!! It was very, very, simple the repair

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!