10650444900 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I called a local appliance repair / sales store and he told me what to look for. There is an electronic "eye" on the "On / Off" panel in the freezer, and there is an electronic eye that sends a beam across to the other side where there is a receiver. If there is no beam, or the beam is obstructed --- for example when the freezer door is open the little "door" on the opposite side of the On / Off switch opens, interrupting the beam --- the icemaker will not work. In my case it was easy... there was no beam being sent across, so I KNEW it was bad.

Ordered the part, took out 6 screws total to remove the sender and receiver, removed the circuit boards with 3 more screws, replaced with new boards, and reinstalled.

Trust me - a 10 year old could do this. Don't be afraid because it involves "circuit boards" - it's literally one or two screws, replace the boards, screw them back in, and plug the two sides back in. ANYONE can do it... anyone!!!

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Removed the top bracket (3 5/16 size hexhead bolts)
Lifted door free of the bottom cam and hinge socket
(after, of course removing the items from the door shelves!)
removed one bolt holding the lower came to the cabinet.
Pried the cam loose, replaced with new and re-bolted
removed one bolt from cam on door - unable to remove cam until I removed the guard bracket (two more bolts)
worked the plastic cam from the door by twisting it and pulling the socket from it's hole.
Slipped the new cam into the socket hole, aligned the bolt hole and bolted it tight.
Aligned the top cam to the bottom cam as I replaced the door. Re-attached the top bracket.
All bolts were 5/16
Door now works perfectly again.

Replacing this part was a breeze. But I could not believe how fast the part arrived at my doorstep - was expecting it to arrive in 3 days but it arrived in 2. And the part exactly the right one - the pictures on the sight helped a great deal in correctly identifying it.

I would absolutely order from here again and recommend it to friends.

Replacing my old ice maker with the new ice maker that I bought through PartsSelect was fairly easy. The part came without any directions - so I am glad that I did a little research on PartSelect prior to ordering. I am not the most mechanically coordinated person - but even with my large hands pulling the old ice maker out and putting the new one in was simple.
Only real problem was trying to snap the plug in and making sure that the connection was completely tight. With a side-by-side refrigerator - getting my hands and shoulders (I am a large man) far enough in to apply enough pressure to snap the connectors was a challenge.
Within 30 minutes, my wife heard the ice maker making ice - I was a hero and I had saved about $150 in the labor I was quoted.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

I first replaced the water valve, but that did not correct the problem. I then replaced the filter, but still no luck. In the end, it turned out to the the water filter housing was malfunctioning and not letting water through the filter when the filter was installed (it did let water through when the filter was removed, however). I replaced the water filter housing and all worked well once again. The filter housing is not difficult to replace. The hardest part is figuring out how to remove the hoses from the filter. Just push the hose in while holding the plastic ring around the outside, then pull the hose back out.

Steps to replace Whirlpool evaporator fan motor
1. Watch numerous DIY Youtube videos
2. Move frozen food to refrigerator section, close refrigerator door
3. Cut power to refrigerator
4. Remove all shelves and bins in freezer section
5. Back panel has two parts, a top and a bottom section
6. Unclip small shroud covering screw bolt in upper left corner holding top panel. Remove screw bolt
7. Gently pull and work top panel out
8. Remove screw bolts from all four corners in lower panel and remove bottom panel
9. Verify power has been turned off
10. Unclip grounding wire
11. Unclip evaporator fan motor from power
12. Remove whole cradle holding evaporator fan motor. Note orientation of cradle. Fan blade is slightly angled toward the back of freezer. In other models, the cradle may not be removeable.
13. Remove plastic fan with firm pull
14. Unclip bottom brace to remove evaporator fan motor
15. Replace old grommets in bottom brace and on top of evaporator fan motor with the new grommets
16. Install new evaporator in cradle and clip-in the bottom brace
17. Install new fan blade on motor
18. Place cradle with new evaporator fan motor back in freezer
19. Reclip power and ground wire
20. Turn on power and test if working correctly
21. Turn off power
22. Complete steps from 8 to 2 in reverse

Easy repair, third time in four months, same part. I don't recommend Whirlpool refer's. Stick to the washer and dryers.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

I replaced this same ice maker a month before, if that long, using a part I found $40 cheaper from another site. Needless to say you get what you pay for, the existing part was not exactly the same as the original and leaked water all over the place. I removed the not so old icemaker by removing the flapper door and removing the harness cover then pulling out the existing icemaker followed by disconnecting the wiring harness. Now with the old icemaker removed I removed the bottom tray/shield from the existing ice maker by removing the three screws from it then attached the tray to the bottom of the new ice maker from PartSelect which did not come with the bottom tray/shield. Finally, I executed the removal process in reverse order to install the new ice maker.