NTW4516FW1 Amana Washer - Instructions

Super easy. Watch the video on YouTube.

I removed the cap over the ratchet mechanism, removed the ut holding the agitator in place, removed the agitator and cleaned all the parts. The assembly for the ratchet dogs was a 3 piece assembly that was included in the kit I bought from Part Select. I also bought a new cap and gasket since my old gasket had broken too. A new gasket was already included in the kit, so I didn't need ot buy the cap. I liked that th ekit included everything I needed and good instructions. parts got to me in about 3 days. Very happy with my Parts Select experience and the fact I saved at least $100.

Took ten minutes to pop upper assembly off and replace dogs. Note long ratchet or nut diver advisable 5/8.

I popped of the fabric softner dispenser at the top auger by appling pressure with both thumbs rather than use the notch provided. This gives access to the agitator mounting bolt which was removed with a deep socket and extension on a ratchet handle. The agitator slipped right off the splined shaft by pulling upward at two points at the bottom. I ordered the complete agitator repair kit which included a part that improved the operation of the top auger, it may have been a factory upgrade at some point on this machine. I did use silicone grease where required and I feel that this is a must for longevity of the thrust washer. If you are ordering the complete kit, the o-ring seal for the inner cap is included. The machine washes like it was new.

Removed the attaching bolt and then removed the Upper Agitator Assembly. I removed the damaged parts and installed the Agitator Repair Kit and Re-installed the NEW Upper Agitator Assembly.

All of our wash was smelling like mildew. It was making us nauseas . After the repair everything smelled fresh and clean again. We received our parts within three days.

Thanks

I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.

Thanks for making finding part so easy . . . .

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Pulled up on fabric softener dispenser and removed it. Had to use pliers to remove cap and seal to get access to the bolt holding the agitator in.

Realized my socket extension wasn’t long enough so went to Lowe’s and bought another.

Was unable to hold the bottom of the agitator to keep it still and get enough leverage to remove the bolt. I poured hot water over it and then climbed into the washer and used my foot to hold the vanes still while I removed the bolt. Once I got the agitator out, the rest was a breeze. Separated the top of the agitator from the bottom by placing it on the floor, using my feet to hold it down and pulling up to remove the top part of the agitator.
Turned the top of the agitator upside down and removed the cam and feed dogs. Assembled the new one and held the agitator top horizontally while placing the new part back in.
Reassembled the top and bottom of the agitator and put it back into the washer. Tightened the bolt, replaced the cap with its seal and pressed the fabric softener dispenser back into place.

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

I needed an air impact wrench to remove the single nut. It was stuck on there. Once the Nut. Was removed it was an easy repair. Perfect fit! Just pop it on the shaft and replace the bolt. Since I had my air tools out already I gave it a couple of dugga duggas.

Part fixed it perfectly.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I watched the video and for the most part the first part of the repair went well. I carefully stored the screws, but despite what the video suggested the part did NOT just slide out. Upon further inspection I discovered two small screws in the top of the valve housing affixing it to the machine. Since it was to narrow an are to use a driver I was forced to remove the housing that holds the timer, which involved removing the knob and a small screw. On each side of the housing was a metal clip and true to form I was able to loosen one side but the other the clip launched into orbit. After a thorough inspection of the floor I found said clip. I was then able to remove the housing and loosen the two screws. Of interest is the fact that the new part had molded places for screws different that the video. After that replacing everything went smoothly and I was able to hook up the washer as the repair was successful.

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!