Product Description
Limit Thermostat Specifications
This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Whirlpool Wall Oven Limit Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Little to no heat when baking | Element will not heat | Will Not Start | Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
This part works with the following products:
Wall Oven, Microwave Oven Combo, Range.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag.
Part# WP9759243 replaces these:
AP6014016, 4451442, 9759243, WP9759243VP
Customer Reviews
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Wayne P - June 25, 2023
Verified Purchase
Easy purchase, quick shipping
Part was as new when arrived. Installed it, but am not sure it is working as the stove has no power. So purchased the other fuse and transformer, hoping to get to it this week. Partselect has been easy to navigate and quick to ship. Thank you Partselect.
Jack W - May 7, 2023
Verified Purchase
Exactly what we needed......works perfectly.
The part was in excellent condition and arrived quickly. Easy install and our stove works perfectly.
Gillian M - December 26, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy to find and replace
It was easy to find the part we needed for our wall oven at PartSelect. It was easy to install with the help of the great video included on the PartSelect site. We are back to baking!
Trevor D - October 21, 2022
Verified Purchase
Quick and Easy
Partselect had a whole lot of reviews from other customers with a similar problem I had and also a guide on how to change the part. All I did was order the part and act like a pro. My wife was happy and amazed.??
Kevin C - March 3, 2022
Verified Purchase
Excellent service
Rec'd part right away. Reviewed how to you tube video and successfully repaired myself saving hundreds of dollars. Highly recommend Parts Select.
Kent W - January 8, 2022
Verified Purchase
Limit Thermostat repair with a twist
Week before before Christmas and a dinner to cook on the 25th!. Put the cleaning cycle on a KitchenAid Micro/Wall oven (maybe should have done that after Christmas dinner). Error codes after cleaning cycle and oven would not heat on any setting. Decided it was the Limit Thermostat. Received the part from PartSelect in quick order and was exact fit...reasonable install with video review. Started the oven and it began to heat but after 15 minutes tripped the breaker. Repeated process several times on different settings with same end result. Faulty part? Not so... contacted my local appliance repair guy Stan from Milton ON for a phone consult ( I paid him for the advice which one should do even though he did not ask) and he said oven is likely working OK check the breaker may be faulty. Thought it was a long shot but low and behold changed the breaker and all things shined for a Christmas dinner thanks to PartSelect and STAN the appliance repairman.
Derek T - December 16, 2020
Verified Purchase
Limit T.stat replacement
The part was the correct part as ordered in OE pack. The shipping took too long to arrive, 10 days. I used the 4 minute video to get installation instructions and had no issue with the install. Unit now works perfectly again. Thanks. DT
David H - February 19, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
The part is working great and very easy to install with the given instructions. Will use your services again to repair and item. You have best site to order from and easy to find the part needed.
Joanne L - December 3, 2018
Verified Purchase
Worked great
Easy to change great work
Alexander M - October 17, 2018
Verified Purchase
Worked as expected
Excellent delivery speed - easy to install - oven working
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 14 reviews.
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No heat after cleaning oven
This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.
Other Parts Used:
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Frederick from St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
107 of 118 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't heat after cleaning cycle
Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.
Other Parts Used:
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Devin from Platte City, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
34 of 35 people
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Oven wouldn't heat after a cleaning cycle
Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.
Other Parts Used:
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Robert from Willow Park, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Upper oven bake and broil elements fail to heat when keypad entries made and indicating correctly
Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.
Other Parts Used:
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Kenneth V. from Kent, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 21 people
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Oven would not heat
This is a drop in range so I had to remove the range and set on a dolly. Turn the dolly around and acess the THRMST-FIX that needed replaceing, it was open. put the range back in its place and could still use the rest of stove until I received the parts 2 days later .
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB
Pulled the range out put the new THRMST-FIX in put the range back together and put the range back in place and it has worked ever since.
GOOD JOB
Other Parts Used:
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Elvin from Richmond, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
11 of 16 people
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oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.
Other Parts Used:
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Joi from Higginsville, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 20 people
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quit heating
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you
Other Parts Used:
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karen from bismarck, ND
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 12 people
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Neither bake nor broil elements came on
Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from bad unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.
Other Parts Used:
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Rod from Dripping Springs, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.
First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).
Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.
The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.
Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).
Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.
This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.
Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.
The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.
Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.
Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.
Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.
Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.
Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ensure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).
Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.
The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.
Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).
Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.
This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.
Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.
The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.
Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.
Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.
Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.
Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.
Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
Other Parts Used:
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Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people
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every time I would try to do the self clean mode on my drop in range the thermostat blows. Last time it was still under warranty. I took the part number from the repair man's invoice to order the new part.
My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.
Other Parts Used:
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joyce from thomasville, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
5 of 8 people
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Questions and Answers
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Charlie
January 31, 2018
Oven becomes very hot, locks the door and reads F3 E2
For model number RBS245PRB03
Hi Charlie,
Thank you for your question. The F3 E2 error code stands for: Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD). I would suggest testing your temperature sensor with a multi meter. If that part is working then it may be your electronic control board that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
7 people found this helpful.
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Mac
December 12, 2018
I performed a self-clean and when finished the door opens, only if I lift it up. The elements will no heat.
For model number RBS275PDQ6
Hello Mac, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Oven Sensor, PartSelect Number PS11742569. Testing the temperature sensor probe on your oven is easy. With the sensor at room temperature, measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080 – 1090 ohms at room temperature.
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Mike
February 13, 2019
For years have bought papa murphy's take and bake pizza. About 8 months ago bought one. Cooked it, bottom of dough not cooked, top was. Sunday baked son chicken wings, got up to check, oven panel says e2 and f3. Would like to fix this. Do you know which part? I'm hoping it's not two issues. Bottom of pizza not cooked and what the digital says. After 20 minutes or so, pushed on and it worked fine. I don't believe temperature is correct. Thank you. Mike
For model number Whirlpool RBS305PRQ00
Hi Mike, thank you for your question. That error code indicates that there is an issue with your appliance oven temperature sensor. First I would say test your elements with a multi meter to see if they are working correctly or not. They should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms to be working correctly. The other part you should check would be your oven temperature sensor. That can also be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 1000 - 1100 ohms. If those three parts are fine however, then the issue may be in your control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Margaret
February 2, 2018
At first it started flashing f3. Then it would turn heat off flash f3 and i would have to turn off, restart. Bake for a few minutes flash f3 and was either not heating or temperature changed. Do i need part ps11748765 to fix? Is there a video showing installation?
For model number GBS277PDB11
Hi Margaret,
Thank you for your question. The F3 error code is referring to an open oven temperature sensor. The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty temperature sensor. A faulty temperature sensor can be a fire risk. If your sensor is not working properly, you should look to replace it straight away. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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John
March 4, 2018
Oven comes on but will that heat up
For model number Rbs245pdt12
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. I believe that you are saying that your appliance will not heat? There are really only a few parts that would cause that. I would suggest checking this thermostat, your temperature sensor, and your element first. All of those parts can be tested with a multi meter to determine if they are bad or not. If they are all fine, then unfortunately it may be your electronic control board that is the issue. I hope that helps. If that was not your question, I do apologize. If you could resubmit your question with some more information, we would definitely be able to help. Good luck with your repair.
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Ernie
September 5, 2019
Our oven was not heating. I troubleshot the problem with a digital multi meter to the limit thermostat, as it was open. I ordered the replacement part #wp9759243. I install the part, turned the circuit breaker on and instantly the broiler and bake elements came on. I tested the limit thermostat replacement part and found this device had 0 ohms. I ordered another part and the same part had 0 ohms. I though i should see some resistance between the terminals. I went on several forums to research and found two (2) different opinions; one says i should measure between 1k ohms and 1.1k ohms and another opinion says i should see 0 ohms. I am confused as i believe i should see some resistance between the terminals. Have i received two (2) defective parts? Please help. Thank you.
For model number RBS275PDB14
Hello Ernie, Thank you for the question. The Limit Thermostat should ready closed for continuity. This could be an issue with the Oven Control Board, PartSelect Number PS11745873. Hope this helps!
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Ralph Lorenz
January 22, 2020
1/2 through self cleaning cycle oven shuts down compleaty no power even time gone it’s like no power breaker o.K. Shut off breaker an tryed turning back on still no power?
For model number RBS245pdt14
Hello Ralph, thank you for your question. There are a few parts we would recommend testing to determine the problem. They are the Limit thermostat PartSelect Number: PS11747249, and temperature sensor PartSelect Number: PS11748765. If these parts are tested and are ok, the issue would be with the main electronic control board. I hope this helps.
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Daniel
December 19, 2017
I replaced the temperature sensor (top oven was overheating) and the oven worked for 3 cooks. Last night it went hot and locked the door. Bad sensor or other part?
For model number RBD305PDT14
Hello Daniel,
Thanks for your question. Using a multi-meter, we would advise testing the thermal fuse and the door latch for continuity. If they do not show continuity, replace them.
I hope this helps.
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James
July 2, 2019
Door is locked and no power after doing self cleaning cycle. Is this the thermal fuse or something else?
For model number IBS550PWS01
Hello James, thank you for writing. First try pressing the CANCEL/OFF key to do a latch reset. Wait about 30 seconds and then try to open the door. You can also try cutting the power at the circuit breaker for a few minutes then turn the power back on to reset the unit. Is there any sort of error code being displayed? We hope this helps and please feel free to get back in touch with us if this does not resolve the issue.
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Charles
February 26, 2023
Regarding the oven shutdown thermal fuse part #11747249 for our whirlpool wall oven. I have four of these items, three I purchased from you. One of was in the oven. I tested each of the fuses across the contact points while out of the oven with my multimeter and three of the four had no reading. the fourth did have a reading indicating it was closed. My question is what are the fuses NC or NO.(normally closed or normally open). I have a schematic for the oven but it does not indicate the correct position..Can you please let me know before I order further parts? thanks Chuck
For model number RBS277PVB00
Hi Charles, thank you for contacting us. If you checked the mentioned thermal fuse, part number PS11747249, with a multimeter and got no reading, that means your part is normally open. If the multimeter indicated continuity then your part would be normally closed. We hope this solves your problem!
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11747249
Manufacturer Part Number: WP9759243
Manufacturer Part Number: WP9759243
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