This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and sho...
This Grease Filter is constructed of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene and is used to trap grease and help eliminate odors from the exhaust air while cooking. It attaches onto the exhaust and is rated ...
This three-terminal switch fits your microwave door. This part is mostly black in color and is about 1.5 inches with metal terminals. You might need to replace this part if your microwave is not heati...
This door interlock switch is for microwaves.
Door interlock switch prevents the microwave from starting when the door is open.
Because the microwave shielding and interlock switches must be pro...
The light socket in your microwave houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. The light bulb will screw into it, so the light bulb will be held in place. Be very careful when installin...
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Amy
December 15, 2019
Microwave bulb would sometimes work, sometimes not. When it doesn't, i get a "door" message on display. Often, just jiggling the microwave would turn light back on. This has increased in frequency, so that now light won't come on at all. I tried replacing the bulb - didn't seem to make difference. Bulb is fine, still reading "door", tried plugging into a different 3 prong outlet....nothing seems to help. what could it be?
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello Amy, thank you for your question. This sounds like an issue with the door switches, which are PartSelect Number: PS2361111, PartSelect Number: PS2361113, and PartSelect Number: PS10057151. We would recommend testing these parts. Here is a link on how to test those parts.
https://www.partselect.com/Microwave+test-door-switch+repair.htm
I hope this helps!
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Colleen
March 9, 2020
The over the range lamp went out - literally “popped” and out and we had to remove the remaining socket - replaced the lamp- light will not work now - what else might we need to replace?
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello Colleen, thank you for your question. You may need to replace the Socket itself. Here is the part information for that piece. I hope this helps.
Hello Al and thanks for writing.
Sounds like a stuck door switch # PS2361111 & # PS2361113 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. It is recommended to replace both parts at the same time. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Light will not turn off since changing bulb. Where is circuit board. Tnx
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello, Thank you for your question. The board is behind the panel with the buttons. We hope this helps.
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Skip
March 9, 2020
Replaced the light socket and bulb but still does not work. Microwave works fine. Purchased a new ceramic fuse but can't locate it in the unit.
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hi Skip, Thank you for your question. Make sure to unplug your appliance. To get to your fuse, you will have to remove your grille from above your door and you will have to unscrew and remove your control panel. There is a small metal vent on the top right hand side of your appliance, your fuse is located in there. Be very careful. If you do not release the charge from your capacitor, you may get electrocuted. You can release the charge with a screw driver with an insulated handle. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.