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41790807990
41790807990 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Overview
Sections of the 41790807990
[Viewing 7 of 7]Manuals & Care Guides for 41790807990
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Use and Care Manual
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Wiring Diagram
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Rear Drum Bearing Kit
PartSelect #: PS459829
Manufacturer #: 5303281153
This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant, and installation screws.
$79.28
In Stock
Upper Drum Glide
PartSelect #: PS470317
Manufacturer #: 5303937139
Front upper felt glide pad with 3 nylon glides - includes adhesive.
$51.09
In Stock
Drum Support Bearing
PartSelect #: PS418807
Manufacturer #: 131825900
This part attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet.
$8.04
In Stock
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
PartSelect #: PS419402
Manufacturer #: 134120900
This thermal fuse limiter, with a limit of 220 degrees Fahrenheit, is manufactured for both gas and electric clothes dryers. Once the internal temperature of the dryer reaches 220 degrees, the heating element cuts out.
$34.56
In Stock
Dryer Lint Screen
PartSelect #: PS12585473
Manufacturer #: 5304516871
This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers.
Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
$65.91
In Stock
Front Lower Drum Seal
PartSelect #: PS460194
Manufacturer #: 5303283286
This part helps to keep the dryer running as quietly as possible.
$53.74
On Order
Drive V-Belt
PartSelect #: PS1146950
Manufacturer #: 134511600
This belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt get wear and tear.
$31.69
In Stock
Door Catch
PartSelect #: PS418433
Manufacturer #: 131658800
This part helps keep the door closed while the machine is running.
$79.66
In Stock
Multi-Rib Drum Belt
PartSelect #: PS3408299
Manufacturer #: 137292700
This belt helps rotate from the drive motor to the drum.
$24.94
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS815509
Manufacturer #: 134190200
This washing machine water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter.
$162.38
In Stock
Start Switch
PartSelect #: PS1146154
Manufacturer #: 134399700
This start switch is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your dryer. A faulty start switch means your dryer will not begin its drying cycle. In order to complete this repair, you will need a ...
$87.80
In Stock
Door Strike
PartSelect #: PS455020
Manufacturer #: 5303207102
"Male" piece of a dryer door closing mechanism.
$23.90
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 41790807990
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Common Symptoms of the 41790807990
[Viewing 12 of 12]Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Too hot
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Drum Not Spinning
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Will Not Start
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Loud Squeaking
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
Parts Used:
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Frank from Boyertown, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
Parts Used:
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rodney from fairfield bay, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
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The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
Parts Used:
-
Rick from Walkerton, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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