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24688L0
24688L0 General Electric Range - Overview
Sections of the 24688L0
[Viewing 5 of 5]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
![Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301 Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/236043-1-S-GE-WB21X5301-Oven-Sensor.jpg)
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$47.53
Special Order
![Bake Element – Part Number: WB44K5012 Bake Element – Part Number: WB44K5012](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/249247-1-S-GE-WB44K5012-Bake-Element.jpg)
Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS249247
Manufacturer #: WB44K5012
This partially open-style bake element comes with push-on terminals and is located on the bottom of the oven.
$129.21
Special Order
![Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB32X106 Drip Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB32X106](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/244696-1-S-GE-WB32X106-Drip-Bowl-8-Inch.jpg)
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244696
Manufacturer #: WB32X106
Sold individually. This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
$65.96
Special Order
![Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB32X107 Drip Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB32X107](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/244697-1-S-GE-WB32X107-Drip-Bowl-6-Inch.jpg)
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244697
Manufacturer #: WB32X107
This six inch chrome drip bowl is intended for use with rolled terminal style plug in surface element units.
$11.19
Special Order
![Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719 Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/243701-1-S-GE-WB2X9719-Single-Heating-Element-Support-Clip.jpg)
Single Heating Element Support Clip
PartSelect #: PS243701
Manufacturer #: WB2X9719
This metallic clip is used to help support the broil element. Sold individually.
$21.20
Special Order
![INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT – Part Number: WB21X36771 INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT – Part Number: WB21X36771](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/16216966-1-S-GE-WB21X36771-INFINITE-HEAT-SWITCH-KIT.jpg)
INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
PartSelect #: PS16216966
Manufacturer #: WB21X36771
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
No Longer Available
![Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056 Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/1517612-1-S-GE-WB48X10056-Broiler-Pan-Large.jpg)
Broiler Pan - Large
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
Includes the pan and grate.
$68.19
Special Order
![Hinge with Roller - Left Side – Part Number: WB14X103 Hinge with Roller - Left Side – Part Number: WB14X103](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/231611-1-S-GE-WB14X103-Hinge-with-Roller-Left-Side.jpg)
Hinge with Roller - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS231611
Manufacturer #: WB14X103
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door
$141.05
Special Order
![Hinge with Roller - Right Side – Part Number: WB14X104 Hinge with Roller - Right Side – Part Number: WB14X104](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/231612-1-S-GE-WB14X104-Hinge-with-Roller-Right-Side.jpg)
Hinge with Roller - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS231612
Manufacturer #: WB14X104
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door.
$151.11
Special Order
![Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17X210 Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17X210](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/232606-1-S-GE-WB17X210-Surface-Burner-Terminal-Block-Kit.jpg)
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS232606
Manufacturer #: WB17X210
This kit comes with the terminal block, mounting clip and wires.
$91.36
Special Order
Questions And Answers for 24688L0
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Common Symptoms of the 24688L0
[Viewing 8 of 8]Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/236043_1_s.jpg)
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Element will not heat
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/16216966_1_S.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/232606_1_S.jpg)
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Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/236043_1_s.jpg)
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Door won’t close
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/231612_1_S.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/231611_1_s.jpg)
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Little to no heat when broiling
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249432_1_s.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
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Oven is too hot
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/236043_1_s.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
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Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/236043_1_s.jpg)
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/249247_1_S.jpg)
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Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
Fixed by
these parts
these parts
![Fixing](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/assets/PartImages/231612_1_S.jpg)
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Bake element cracked on its own
Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, flip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.
Parts Used:
-
Timothy from Cordova, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver
623 of 633 people
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Oven took 30 minutes to get to 380 degrees-no hotter
First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who had already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks
Parts Used:
-
Sandra from Hayward, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
387 of 391 people
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
-
James from Austin, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
220 of 258 people
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