This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door. The hinges control the rate that the oven door opens and closes, and allows the door to stay open at an angle. This hinge can be used on either the...
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven.
$191.54
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Questions And Answers for JJW8527BAB
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Susan
March 28, 2024
Oven preheat never gets up to temp, takes 20 min to get to 220deg. Checked long temp sensor, measures 1090 ohms. Checked lower element, measures 21.6 ohms. Bottom element does not feel like it is heating, but you can hear relays clicking periodically. Clock board was replaced a month ago since broiler element would not turn off, which restored normal operation for about 2 weeks. Any other suspects or should we replace the clock board under the warranty?
For model number JJW8527BAB
Hello Susan, thank you for getting in touch. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the continuity of the broil element. If it is not faulty, then you may need to check the oven control board, part number PS11743900, to solve the problem. We hope that helps!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.