This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and th...
This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r...
This OEM replacement dryer slide bearing is white in color, and approximately 3 inches long. The slide bearings are supportive linings for your dryer. If they have eroded, or are damaged, the drums wi...
This is a duct felt seal for a dryer. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. Your dryer will not function properly if the drum felt seal is compromis...
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Mark
March 10, 2020
Dryer has no heat i took it away from wall and took off vent hose and started but no heat also checked main fuse box
For model number GTD42EASJ0WW
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your question. If your dryer is not producing heat, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the duct felt seal, the drive belt, the mica heater, the thermostat and the high limit thermostat. You will need to check the belt and the duct felt seal visually for any signs of damage and you will need to test the electrical parts with a multi-meter. Here is a link to one of our videos on YouTube that you may use as a general reference on how to use one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. If you require more information on these parts, click Appliance Repair on our website. On the next page that comes up, select the dryer icon. When the next page comes up you will be provided with a symptoms list. Choose, "How To Fix A Dryer That's Not Producing Heat". We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
Hi Billie,
Thank you for your question. If you have your dryer venting out from the roof, you will need to place a filter screen on it to prevent excess lint from escaping. You will also have to clean the vent on a regular basis as well to prevent any lint buildup. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Herman
April 28, 2023
Trying to replace the timer switch, do not have a diagram of the wire connections. I followed the color code to connect the wires but dryer will not start. How can I make sure I have the wires on the right terminal?
For model number GTD42EASJ0WW
Hi Herman, thank you for contacting us. The red wire will go to Terminal B, the brown wire will go to Terminal C, the orange with a black stripe will go to Terminal A, the black to Terminal S, and the yellow to Terminal X. If it is there, the pink goes to Terminal H, and the tangerine goes to Terminal C. Terminal C will have a piggyback connection. We hope this helps!
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Craig
March 6, 2020
Do you have a wiring diagram showing the timer connections?
For model number GTD42EASJ0WW
Hi Craig, thank you for your question. Unfortunately we do not have a wiring diagram for this model. You may have to get that directly from your manufacturer. Good luck with your repair.
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Terry
October 26, 2023
Push start. bussing noise.does not run.
Spin drum by hand starts running. Works fine.
For model number GTD42EASJ0WW
Hello Terry, thank you for getting in touch. Based on our understanding, we would suggest checking the drive motor, part number PS12743452, to fix the issue. If the motor becomes weak, it cannot start the cycle by itself, requiring outside force to get the drum spinning. We hope this sorts out your problem!
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Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on. This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.