This grease filter is sixteen and a half inches long and nine inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft ranges and cooktops.
$61.74
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This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
$107.02
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This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
$118.19
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Jerry
January 29, 2023
no heat on one burner
For model number CVE3400W
Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. Please check the faulty burner/element with a multimeter for continuity. Also, check the switch of the burner for continuity. These are the probable causes of the issue. The following parts are suitable replacements for your model: the surface element, part number PS11759487, the dual surface element, part number PS11759488, the 6-inch element, part number PS11764912, and the surface burner switches, part number PS2003583, and part number PS12070671. Please replace the faulty part. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2 Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch. Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe. Good Luck
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)